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Powys HeritageTreftadaeth Powys

Themes

Subjects that run across the whole county: language, landownership, water, work, movement, and the things that were removed.

Theme · clearance

Mynydd Epynt, 1940

In 1940 the War Office cleared fifty-four farms off Epynt. Around two hundred people left, and the western edge of Welsh-speaking Breconshire went with them.

Theme · water

The Drowned Valleys

Liverpool took Llanwddyn. Birmingham took the Elan. Both were finished decades before anyone in Wales was in a position to argue about it.

Theme · religion

Chapels and Nonconformity

The largest building in most Powys villages is a chapel, and increasingly it is somebody's house. This is the institution that taught rural Wales to read.

Theme · movement

The Drovers

For six centuries the main export of mid Wales walked to England on its own feet, and the roads it used are still the clearest tracks on the hill.

Theme · language

The Welsh Language in Powys

Radnorshire lost Welsh almost completely, and did so early. Ystradgynlais never did. Understanding the difference explains a great deal about this county.

Theme · the March

The Border

Not a line but a zone, roughly ten miles wide, that has been moving for thirteen hundred years and has not finished.

Theme · work

Wool and Flannel

For about eighty years mid Wales clothed a good part of the industrial world, and then Yorkshire took the trade and the towns never fully recovered.

Theme · language

Reading Place Names

Radnorshire lost the Welsh language almost entirely and kept nearly all its Welsh place names. The map remembers what the population forgot.

Theme · the military estate

The Army in Powys

The Ministry of Defence is one of the largest landholders in the county. Most people who write about Powys heritage act as though it is not there.

Theme · absence

Silences in the Landscape

The ruins on the open hill are not medieval. They are Victorian and Edwardian, and they are the clearest record this county has of the people who left.

Theme · land

Estates and Landownership

In 1873 a government survey found that a handful of families owned most of Powys. Fifty years later almost all of it had been sold, in the largest transfer of land since the dissolution.

Theme · work

Metal and Stone

Lead, silver, slate and limestone. Powys had a metal-mining industry that made fortunes for people who lived somewhere else and left holes on the hill.

Theme · land and work

Farming the Hill

Almost everything visible in Powys is the result of somebody grazing sheep on ground that would rather be growing trees.

Theme · movement

Routes and Movement

Powys is a place people cross. Almost every town here exists because two ways met, and the ones that lost their route lost everything else with it.

Theme · the county itself

How Powys Was Assembled

Powys is fifty years old and the name is thirteen hundred. The two refer to almost completely different pieces of ground.

Theme · building

Buildings Made from What Was There

Old red sandstone in the south, grey Silurian in the middle, timber frame along the border. You can tell where you are in Powys from a wall.

Theme · settlement

The Shape of a Powys Town

Planted or grown. Every town in this county is one or the other, and the street plan tells you which within about thirty seconds.

Theme · settlement

Where People Live Now

The county's population is roughly what it was in 1900, and almost none of the same people are in the same places.

Theme · tradition

Folklore, and What to Do With It

Powys has drowned cities, a lake that swallowed a palace, and a grave where grass will not grow. None of it is evidence, and all of it is worth recording.

Theme · water and money

The Four Wells

Four towns in one county added Wells to their names and sold their water. One of them was built from nothing to do it, and is now the county town.

Theme · transport

What Was Built and What Was Taken Away

Powys got a dense railway network in twenty years and lost most of it in ten. A town of eight thousand people has had no station since 1962.

Theme · the earthwork

Offa's Dyke

Eighty miles of bank and ditch, the largest thing built in Britain between the Romans and the Normans, and nobody is certain what it was for.

Theme · the revolt

Glyndŵr in Powys

He held a parliament at Machynlleth and burned most of the towns in this county. Then he vanished, and there is no record of his death, burial or capture.

Theme · land use

The Plantations

Conifers cover a substantial part of upland Powys and almost none of it is older than a century. Underneath the trees is a landscape nobody has ploughed since.

Theme · welfare and its absence

The Workhouse

Every district in Powys had a union workhouse. The buildings survive in numbers, the records survive almost completely, and hardly anyone reads them.

Theme · work

The Trades That Held a Parish Together

A Powys parish in 1880 supported a blacksmith, a wheelwright, a saddler, a miller, a shoemaker and a tailor. By 1950 it supported none of them.

Theme · sources

Reading a Churchyard

A Powys burial ground records language shift, emigration, infant mortality and occupation more precisely than almost any written source, and it is free to read.

Theme · culture

Singing

Plygain survived continuously in the Tanat and Vyrnwy valleys when it died out everywhere else. It is still sung, in parts, before dawn, by whoever stands up.

Theme · trade

Market Day

A charter, a wide street and a set of fair dates. That combination created most of the towns in this county and it is still running one week a year at Llanelwedd.

Theme · land use

Trees That Were Worked

Ancient woodland in Powys is not wild. Almost every wood in the county was a crop, cut on rotation, and the shapes it was cut into are still visible.

Theme · water and belief

Wells and Springs

Nearly every llan in Powys had a well attached to its saint, and a good many kept their curative reputation for three hundred years after the Reformation was supposed to have ended all that.

Theme · foundations

The Rock Underneath

Old red sandstone in the south, Silurian mudstone through the middle, limestone and coal in the far south-west. Almost everything else on this site follows from that.

Theme · the present tense

What Is Being Lost Now

Heritage writing is usually about the past. The chapels, field barns and farm buildings of Powys are disappearing at a rate that will make this decade a hard one to reconstruct.

Theme · the county on the page

Writing Powys

Giraldus in 1188, Kilvert in the 1870s, Chatwin in 1982. The outsiders write about the border; the insiders write about the chapel and the hill.